Barbecue Lover's the Carolinas: Restaurants, Markets, Recipes & Traditions by Robert F. Moss

Author:Robert F. Moss [Moss, Robert F.]
Language: eng
Format: azw3
ISBN: 9781493016013
Publisher: Globe Pequot Press
Published: 2015-05-07T04:00:00+00:00

The German Connection: A Dubious Conjecture?

The presence of mustard in the barbecue sauce of the Midlands is often attributed to the German influence in what is known as the Dutch Fork, which takes its name from the spot where the Broad and Saluda Rivers meet to form the Congaree and from the number of Germans (or Deutsch) who settled in the area. Indeed, a suspiciously large number of the family names that adorn the signs of the region’s barbecue restaurants are German in origin: Hite, Bessinger, Dukes, Shealy, Lever, Price. Germans, the explanation goes, have a fondness for mustard, and they ended up incorporating it into their barbecue sauce.

But German names dominate the barbecue in the Piedmont of North Carolina, too. The so-called German conjecture, first advanced by Gary Freeze, a professor of history at Catawba College in Salisbury, North Carolina, postulates that the barbecue families in that region—families with German names like Swicegood, Weaver, and Ridenhour—brought with them a fondness for vinegar-marinated smoked pork and, in particular, prized the shoulder of the hog. And, of course, the presence of immigrant German butchers in Texas and their fondness for smoked meats is often cited to explain the origin of Texas’s famous sauceless brisket and beef ribs. Those Germans and their culinary preferences sure have gotten around.

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